Upper East Side Gem: Ciao Bella

From restaurateur Enrico Proietti (of the perennially popular Per Lei and Baraonda), comes Ciao Bella (unrelated to Ciao Bella on East 92nd) — a swanky, yet decidedly neighborhood-friendly restaurant that offers delectable Italian eats at moderate price points. The crowd is a nice mix of couples on dates, families, and groups of friends. As a sign of the restaurant’s jovial atmosphere many parties come to the eatery to fete their birthdays which, at Ciao Bella, entails turning off all the lights, having music, lively clapping, and a large dessert with sparklers – a memorable birthday for sure. On weekends a DJ is on hand and spins upbeat, but relaxing music that appeals to the wide age range of diners at the restaurant.

The night I went to Ciao Bello the weather was beautiful and the spot’s wrap-around sidewalk seating area was bustling as was their bar. The airy bi-level spot boasts large floor-to-ceiling windows, ample amounts of natural light, and a fabulously vibrant red toned leather tray ceiling, along with comfy red leather chair. Eclectic pop art by Andy Warhol and Keith Herring hangs on the walls of both the main dining room and the second floor, which also features space for private parties and romantic balcony seating. The kitchen is helmed by former Per Lei chef, Fabrizio De Togni, whose influences date back to his early youth, when he spent hours admiring his father’s confectionery work at the bakery he owned in the center of Milan. De Togni has worked, among other places, at a branch of the famous Paper Moon in Istanbul, Turkey, a role that would lead him to cook in subsequent Paper Moon kitchens around the world, and eventually leading him to New York City.

Iced coffee, champagne, tuna tartar with avocado

My wonderful meal began with a glass of champagne served with a strawberry garnish which I love - -you can really smell the strawberry and the champagne isn’t weighted down as it is when the fruit is placed directly in the glass. I also had an iced cappuccino because I was so hot from the humid weather outside. Let me just say that the photo does not do the cappuccino justice. The ice cold beverage was not only refreshing, but it had just the right amount of milk-to-coffee ratio and just the right strength. The meal started off with a flavorful tuna tartar with avocado — a delectable combination. Other crudis offered include Gaeta olives and sesame seeds; salmon with avocado and cucumber and a blue crab and mango ceviche with orange dressing. Following the tartar I had seared scallops with a black pepper and olive tapenade which was served with pan fried “Burnt” artichokes generously doused in Ciao Bella’s signature olive oil (the olive oil is available for purchase at the restaurant).

Scallops with artichoke and risotto with shrimp

Following that I had a bit of risotto with shrimp and a sip of a very flavorful Sancerre with citrus and peach notes. The lists of pastas and primi piatti at Ciao Bella is plentiful. All pastas are made fresh in house. For the main course I had sea bass which was wonderfully flacky and flavorful, served with a mix of vegetables and a grilled lemon.

Sea Bass

For dessert I had a refreshing Italian cocktail that melds vodka with a lemon sorbets which was enjoyable despite my not being particularly fond of lemon. To accompany the cocktail there was a Millefoglie Espressa which comes layered with puff pastry, cream Chantilly, strawberries, a caramelized Porto wine sauce,and fresh figs. One of the main factors contributing to the standout execution of the food is the quality of the ingredients that the restaurant uses. Ciao Bella does not use purveyors; instead, the ingredients are sourced directly from local farmer’s markets.

Following the same philosophy is Giorgio Manzio, Ciao Bella’s sommelier and recurring winner of Wine Spectator’s Award of Excellence. He says of the wine program, “We may not carry every Pinot Grigio from Italy, but we make sure we carry all of the best ones,” emphasizing that it’s not how many bottles are in their cellar, but how good they are and what kind of value they provide the customer. A large majority of those bottles are Italian, with many strong choices in the $40 price range, while glasses are available from a wider geographic range in red, white, and champagne varieties. Keen to offer a bargain at any price point, even Manzio’s most high end wines, which range up to $9,000 a bottle, are significantly less expensive than at other restaurants, as Manzio sourced each bottle directly by auction to ensure the best price possible. Manzio’s list is organized cleverly by region rather than varietal—assisting in what he calls “pairing by analogy,” or geographical pairings between wine and food—and earning him another Wine Spectator award in Ciao Bella’s first year.

Ciao Bella is located at 1640 Second Avenue at 85th Street, and is open for dinner from Monday through Thursday from 5:00 - 12:00 AM, Friday and Saturday 5:00 - 1:00 AM, and Sunday from 5:00 - 11:00 PM, with Sunday brunch from 12:00 - 4:00 PM. Ciao Bella is also open for lunch on weekdays from 12:00 - 3:00 PM. For more information on private parties and reservations, call 212-794-9494 or visit their website.

June 18th, 2009 by Beverage Blogger | Posted in Reviews | (0)